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|POWER LUBER CHARGER PROBLEMS And Other Power Luber Problems for 1400|
|NOTE #1||This is an update on the FAQ's for the Original Power Luber; They are not in any particular order. Read through to find your problem. If you can find it, email me and I will help you.|
|DATE / ISSUE||QUESTION||ANSWER|
|January 2, 2008||If you purchase a new charger and put the bad battery on the new charger, you can ruin the new charger||Try the Battery in the Grease Gun first and see if you can get the grease gun motor to whine. If it does then most probably the Grease Gun Battery is fine. However ON A 12 VOLT:, IF THE BATTERY IS LESS THAN 11 VOLTS IT CAN BLOW OUT THE CHARGER. So Put a voltmeter on the Battery and check it if you are not sure.|
|JANUARY 2, 2008||Some Points to Remember:
|1: A Bad Battery can ruin a Good Charger.
2: A Bad Charger can ruin a Good Battery.
3: We suggest using a Surge Suppressor that you can purchase at the Hardware Store or Computer Store or Electronics Store.
|January 2, 2008||When do I test my Charger and my Battery?||Anytime you suspect a voltage surge; ie you have the unit plugged directly
into the wall.
Anytime the battery charger is not working, check both the battery and the battery charger with a volt meter
|January 2, 2008||How do I test my Charger?
|Put a set of probes on the charger. The 1410 should read more than
14.4 volts. PROBABLY 15 VOLTS.
The charger 1410 , that charges both 1401 & 1801 has a built in system that will tell you to replace the battery - Its a "Smart" charger.
|Pumps Grease but No Pressure.||The Power Luber Pumps grease fine with no pressure on it. On some zerk fittings it pump grease but the power luber tends to lose pressure. In other words it can pump at 500 psi but not 1000 psi.. According to the customer, it loses pressure and just does not pump the grease like it use to. Can you tell me what he needs to replace to get it back so it works like it use to.||HAVE THEM CLEAN OUT THE CHECK VALVE - USE A BORE BRUSH ON THE
THE ONLY TROUBLE SHOOTING WE HAVE IS IN THE MANUAL
|Operates but no grease comes out.||I have an electric grease gun: Power Luber 1200(1240). It doesn't seem to be sucking the grease out and into the hose, even though I can see the plunger moving back and forth and the motor is working. The ball and spring that the plunger moves back and forth into seem to be in good condition. Is there anything else to check? Possibly a seal or check valve that needs to be replaced.||Have them clean out the check valve|
|Still Operates and but no grease comes out.||Ok. I am still having trouble getting the gun to pump grease even though the plunger is moving back and forth. I cleaned the check valve and have done all of the air pocket release methods, but I don't think it's an air pocket. I was wondering if maybe the seal (Part No. 271889) was bad. Any thoughts?||WHEN HE CLEANS THE CHECK VALVE - MAKE SURE HE USED A BORE BRUSH TO CLEAN
THE SEAT - AS THERE CAN BE SOME VERY HARD SUBSTANCE SMASHED ONTO THE SEAT.
|Bore Brush Question.
Cleaning the seat.
|Bore Brush to clean the check valve? Customer is asking: What type of Bore Brush? Brass Bristles or something softer?||Answer: Brass is good & a lot of weapon cleaners work well too.
|Pump Oil with my Power Luber.?||Can I use the Power Luber to pump Oil?||THE BEST WAY WOULD BE TO REMOVE THE ROD , FOLLOWER AND SPRING THEN FILL THE END CAP HOLE; ALWAYS TIP THE GUN HEAD TO GET OIL; No guarantees but the power luber has been used with oil, wood glue and sealants although it is not made for that purpose. Willmar sells a flat end cap and seal for that purpose. Contact them.|
|Grease on the Gear Set||I just changed my gear set on my Power Luber. Should I put Grease in the Gears on my Power Luber?||Answer: use some NLGI# 1 (Not To Much - Just a lite coat)
|Grease out the end of the cannister||I have a 1400 Grease Gun and Grease is pushing out the end of the rod. Any Thoughts||Answer: Replace the 93485.|
|Can't Pull the Rod back||LAST TIME I USED THE POWER LUBER1200 THE ROD WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO PULL BACK. I HAD TO GET MY SON TO PULL IT BACK SINCE I WAS NOT STRONG ENOUGH. I FINALLY GOT IT PULLED BACK AND USED THE GUN WITH A TUBE OF GREASE. I RAN OUT OF GREASE. THIS TIME THE TUBE WAS EASY TO PULL BACK, IN FACT TO EASY. ; I JUST CHANGED A TUBE OF GREASE AND IT WORKED FOR 2 OR 3 NIPPLES AND THEN IT STOPPED WORKING. THE MOTOR AND GEARS APPEAR TO BE FINE. THE SPRING IS FINE AS WELL BUT IT IS MUCH EASIER TO RETRACT IT.||Answer: Sounds like the rubber on the 93485 is going bad , I would replace the 93485.|
|Will not Work or Burns up.||Is there anything quirky about the 1400 power luber as to why it will not work or something burns up that I should know about but is not covered in the manual?||Ans: There is a little red botton near the top that could be the problem.
Find it and press. Its an over load device.
|Minimum Voltage||On a 1400 Battery: What is the minimum Voltage that will ruin the
|ANS: At 11 volts on the 14.4 the battery is bad. The good news
is the charger has a replaceable fuse. The problem with these batteries at that
voltage is they have an internal short and therefore need to be recycled. They
can’t be recharged and brought back up to normal.
|Lubricate the Gears.||What type of grease do you put in the head to lubricate the bearings.||ANS: NLGI#1|
|High Low Switch||On the high low / switch, if it is in the middle will it strip the bearings?||ANS: What strips the gears is shifting while it is still running.|
|Trigger Switch 286095 Wiring||Question: A customer with a 14.4 power luber and the switch 286095 was bad. He told me that when he touches the two wires together, the motor works fine but when he puts the wires in on the holes of the switch, pulls the trigger, the motor does not work.||ANS: I think he may be putting the wires in the wrong socket connections for the 286095 switch. There are 7 holes in the 286095 switch that the wires could go into. So I gave him the numbers the wires are suppose to go into. There is a jumper wire that must go into socket 2 and 4. Coming out of socket 3 is the black wire that goes up to the motor. Coming from the battery negative polarity side is a wire that goes into socket 7 and I believe that is black. Willard said it is red, but looking at the print, the red is positive. That might be his problem . The red wire from the battery connection goes up to the motor. The negative side of the battery is what goes through the switch|
|Date: March 2016
New Trigger Switch 286095
Hello Lincoln Tech Service: I have a 1400 power luber trigger switch problem. Basically, the customer got the new switch 286095, for a 1400 power luber.
Old Switch: accommodates 4 wire connections. Hot, ground and a jumper.
New Switch: looks like it only has a space for 1 wire connection. Please let us know.
FIRST ANSWER: The switch was updated. If you look at the bottom of the new switch there are small numbered ports. Port 5 goes to the battery terminal and port one goes to the motor. I hope this helps.
eliminates the Jumper Wire.
This eliminates the Jumper Wire.
ANSWER: Note: New Switch: Replaces the old and no jumper wire
on the new: Directions. The center switch
wire gets pushed into the hole after backing out the Phillips screw and screwed in tight.
The other wire gets pushed into the metal flap next to the corresponding number hole near
the edge of the switch. When you give the wire a slight tug it automatically locks in
place due to the downward angled center notched metal flap.
It's kind of like a finger trap, the wire can be pushed in but not pulled
out unless you push the flap down with a sharp object as you pull. Also make sure they know it's an updated switch, there is NO jumper wire
on the new switch!!
notched metal flap. It's kind of like a finger trap, the wire can be pushed in but not pulled out unless you push the flap down with a sharp object as you pull. Also make sure they know it's an updated switch, there is NO jumper wire on the new switch!!
|GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING CONDITIONS/ CAUSE / CORRECTIVE ACTION.|
|Motor fails to run.||- Battery needs charging.||Recharge battery.|
|- Faulty wiring to motor.||Remove battery, disassemble handle and|
|check wiring for loose connection.|
| Pressure Relief Valve opens to discharge grease
|- Blocked Line.||Check lines, brazing and grease fitting to|
|- Blocked Bearing||remove or clean obstructions.|
|- Blocked Grease Fitting.|
|PowerLuber fails to dispense grease.||- Grease tube assembly is out of grease.||Check that grease tube assembly has grease.|
|- Loss of prime.||Repeat priming operation.|
|- Ball check item 22 is not functioning.||Remove Items 22 and dean and|
|inspect ball seat area.|
|PowerLuber continues to lose prime.||- Air may be trapped in several locations||Empty grease tube assembly, refill and|
|in container after bulk filling.||repeat priming instructions.|
|- Follower may be binding in grease||Replace grease tube assembly Item 9.|
|Battery fails to take a charge.||- Charger may not have power.||Check that receptacle has power.|
|- Battery may be bad.||Replace battery.|
|Will not pump grease and have done the air purge. What next?||Clean out the check valve??||Runs but no grease comes out.
Remove cartrige cantainer & Battery.
Check valve clean out
Remove hex , fish out ball & spring - clean and set aside
Clean grease out of cavity.
Use wire bore brush and clean the seat.
|Can you comment on this power luber 1400 problem. What does
he need to do?
I have Power Luber model number 1444. The pump will not build pressure. It
bleeds fine, and pumps grease out....just no pressure. What is normally
the problem? Do you rebuild the unit? What would it cost? Do you sell the
parts to repair it?
|The ball is not closing all of the way in the check valve.||Have them clean out the check valve - use a wire bore brush on the seat.
The ball is not closing all of the way.
|1400 Power luber series A, B VS C UNIT||I see two gear kits for the 14.4 power luber
286104 Gear Kit for the Series A and Series B
286286 Gear Kit for the Series C
What is the difference between the two gear sets?
Are they interchangeable if the guy does not know his series?
|The difference is in the lower bearing gear peg diameters. On the Series A and B, the diameter for these pegs for the gears on the bearing is 3 mm diameter. On the series C, the peg diameter for the gears on the bearing is 4 mm diameter.|
|1230 HOSE QUESTION:
|QUESTION: Hello John
I received a complaint from a customer that the 1230 power luber hose keeps plugging up and he has to purchase a new one.
Any reason for that? Anything he can do? Something wrong with the hose?
|ANSWER: , A field fix is to back flush the hose, but safety
wise we recommend replacement. most cases when we here this issue, they may want to clean
out the grease side of the gun in case something got pushed into the head. One item to
check for is the gasket between the grease tube assembly and the head of the gun. If that
is missing it may have been pushed into the grease and chopped up by the piston.
|1400 SERIES A, B AND C AND CHECK VALVE KITS||the 1400 series A and B uses 271885? What is the thread size?
The 1400 Series C uses 286317? What is the thread size?
They are not interchangeable?
A customer is asking.
|Those checks are not interchangeable. the port on the gun is machined
differently between the two.
1400 Series A and B:
1400 Series C
|IDENTIFYING A 1400 SERIES A, B, C AND D||Before you purchase parts for your 1400 power luber, you want to identify the series that you have . Here are some tips for you.|
|How can a customer tell whether he has a 1400 series A, B, C or D Series
I have had 4 requests on this question in the last 2 days.
|There should be a label near the trigger that will Identify the model and series. this is assuming it is not worn off.|
|Is there something on the Power Luber Handle that will say series A, or series B, or Series C or Series D.|
|Differences beween 1400 Series A, B, C and D||1400 Series A and B||The A and B series are essentially the same, only minor parts changes. Breakdowns are attached for your review.|
|1400 Series C||Body of the gun was redesigned between the B and C series to include a pressure relief valve|
|1400 Series D||Additionally, if it was a gun purchased in the last year or so, the 1400 was changed again, and now there is a Series D. the Pressure relief was eliminated and a thermal protector was added to the wire harness to shut off the motor if too much amperage is drawn.|
POWER LUBER PUMP ASSEMBLY ISSUES 1400 AND 1800
I've created the chart below to illustrate the kit changes as clearly as
|Original Service Kits||Description||Replaced by
NEW PowerLuber Service Kits
|286112||PUMP HOUSING, GEAR AND BEARING||286402||14.4 V PUMP ASSEMBLY KIT|
|PUMP HOUSING, GEAR AND BEARING|
|14.4V LEFT AND RIGHT HANDLES AND FASTENERS|
|RELIEF VALVE ASSEMBLY|
|286112||PUMP HOUSING, GEAR AND BEARING||286403||18V PUMP ASSEMBLY KIT|
|PUMP HOUSING, GEAR AND BEARING|
|14.4V LEFT AND RIGHT HANDLES AND FASTENERS|
|RELIEF VALVE ASSEMBLY|
|286102||14.4V PUMP ASSEMBLY KIT WITH MOTOR||286404||14.4 V PUMP ASSEMBLY KIT WITH MOTOR|
|14.4V PUMP ASSY KIT WITH MOTOR & RELIEF VALVE|
|14.4V LEFT AND RIGHT HANDLES AND FASTENERS|
|286220||18V PUMP ASSEMBLY KIT WITH MOTOR||286405||18V PUMP ASSEMBLY KIT WITH MOTOR|
|18V PUMP ASSY KIT WITH MOTOR & RELIEF VALVE|
|18V LEFT AND RIGHT HANDLES AND FASTENERS|
|Separate pdf on Pump Housing Issues|
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Contact us by mail or fax at: Address: Lube Technology/Willmar International P.O. Box 456 Ada, MI. 49301 USA TELEPHONE: 1-616-676-1287 TELEPHONE: 1-616-676-1792 FAX: 1-616-676-1287
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