walker hydraulic jack repair mistakes on repairing your walker Jack, automotive service equipment, garage equipment

Marquette-LUBE TECHNOLOGY-Lincoln Automotive

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Walker's Hydraulic Jack Repair Mistakes INFORMATION ON REPAIRING Walker HYDRAULIC JACKS.

  Recent Update: Saturday, March 28, 2020
Caution Note: You might see this same note on several other pages.  Not everyone looks for FAQ's so I put it in several places.

CAUTION NOTE #1:

Currently the Number one mistake I see is customers using a cold chisel or impact wrench to remove the Gland Nut off of the Front of the front of the jack.  Do not use a cold chisel or impact wrench.  You will ruin the Gland Nut.  Most Walker Gland Nuts / Tanks Nuts have 2 slots in the top.  Use either a Spanner Wrench or I have a photo log of a tool that we constructed and you can make one yourself.  The photo log will show the dimensions.  It is free with your order.   The Gland Nut / Tank nut is put on with 300 ft lbs of torque.   On the 4 ton and 10 ton jacks, it can be as high as 450 ft lbs of torque.

CAUTION NOTE #2:

Reseating the check Balls:  If you insist on reseating the check balls and I don't recommend it.  Only hit the drift pin once.   I have a write up on that as well.   I don't recommend doing it.  The professionals do it for a living and they do it all day so they know how hard to hit the drift pin.   Usually someone hits the drift and then starts talking to themselves asking whether they hit it hard enough.   So they hit it again and create two seats and now you have a whole host of other problems.
CAUTION NOTE #3: Perhaps after reading this you want to reseat the check balls.  Go right ahead.  The ball is is very hard.  Just hit it once that is all.

CAUTION NOTE #4:

Second big mistake I see is removing the cylinder out of the block.  It is put on there with 700 ft lbs of torque and the only thing you will do is deform the cylinder and ruin your jack.  You need a mandrel inside the cylinder to take up the space.  I have mandrels here and I don't do it.  There is a static seal at the bottom but it does not go anywhere, does not need to be changed and it is not in the kit.
CAUTION NOTE #5: On the older jacks, they have a Gland nut inside the Tank Nut.  The gland nut is idenfited with 4 slots evenly spaced around the circumference 90 degrees apart.   The Tank nut has two slots on either side 180 degrees apart.  Anytime you put any torque or a wrench on that Tank Nut : MAKE SURE THE GLAND NUT IS ALWAYS THREADED INSIDE NICE AND TIGHT.   Otherwise you will crush the tank nut and no more are made and you got yourself a Boat Anchor.  That goes for unthreading the Tank nut or Threading it back on.  Anytime a wrench touchs that Tank Nut, the gland nut should be threaded inside.
CAUTION NOTE #6: Walker systems are Open Hydraulic Systems.  This means that as you pump the handle and the jack starts to lift, air has to enter the tank.   I can't tell you how many times I talk to people who tell me that the jack does not lift and they can't understand it because they tightened down the filler screw nice and tight.   It is either plastic filler breather or a slot screw or a rubber plug with a hole it.   Let the fellow breathe.
I am a DIY; Can I repair these? If you have a mechanical aptitude, I would say yes.   Having the tools is helpful.  About 85% of the job is cleaning parts.    10% is brain work.  5% is brute strength, meaning 300 ft lbs of torque.    I try to make it easier for you by doing the write ups.  If you have issues, you can always call us and we will try to help.  I want you to be successful in overhauling and rebuilding your jack.  That is why we offer the write ups with our kits. We don't want to hear about someone ruining a good jack.  I also try to step you through what is needed to overhaul the jack.  Without a doubt a good solid vise is essential.

Do you have someone who can do the rebuild for me?

Yes, I do.  He is located in Santa Rosa California.  He is retired.  His labor rate is reasonable.  He has 45 ++ yrs of experience and he does very good work.  He also likes to earn money and he enjoys talking to people.
What Oil do I use? I would recommend Jack Oil:  Napa Premium Jack Oil, Coastal Jack Oil or Auto Zone has a brand that I use.

After that, in a pinch Hydraulic Oil and ATF Transmission Oil non-synthetic.  I don't really like saying that because someone will invariably use one of the oils and not read the label carefully and there will be an additive in there that will destroy the seals.

DO NOT USE: Motor Oil, Synthetic Oil, Power Steering Fluid, Brake Fluid, Synthetic Transmission Oil.  These have additives in therm and they will eat the seals up.

Is it worth it to Repair My Walker Jack

Your Walker Jack was made in the USA.   The replacement will be an import.  You will not get the same machining and tolerances from your import.  If you don't want to spend the time and money to repair it, you might consider putting it up for sale on ebay or craigs list as is.  They are very valuable to mechanics and professionals.

Updates

I am trying to update this site and information all of the time.  If you have constructive suggestions, please email them.  Time is my biggest enemy.

Other Jacks

We offer kits for other Jacks as well as Walker.  We offer kits for Lincoln, Ajax, Hein Werner and Blackhawk.  We are trying to post the kit information, pricing and offer the service sheets and write ups on those jacks as well.
       

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Address: Lube Technology/Willmar International
         P.O. Box 456
         Ada, MI. 49301 USA
TELEPHONE: 1-616-676-1287
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FAX: 1-616-676-1287

WEB PAGE ADDRESS: https://www.lubeandjack.com/~wmogrady/lube.html
Recent Update: Saturday, March 28, 2020
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